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Policarpa
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Policarpa

by Mrzl on 15 May 2024 for Rookie Awards 2024

Policarpa is a collection of revolution and protest, modernizing traditional silhouettes and exploring textile development.

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“Policarpa” is inspired by my Colombian identity, specifically the Colombian Revolution and historical figure Policarpa Salavarrieta. Policarpa was a seamstress during the Revolution, 1810-1819, and while working in the homes of the wealthy Spanish colonials, she was able to relay messages of oppression and injustice to the other revolutionists. Without her, independence would have been far away, changing the course of history. My collection brings these elements to empower modern day protestors and activists, taking themes from military dress, traditional dress, and protest wear to create these designs. There are still classist and economic issues happening today in Colombia, as well as around the world. I created this collection to be empowering and help those who speak out, protect their identity while fighting for their beliefs.

This collection started out as evening wear, focusing mainly on Policarpa’s life, however instead of telling a tragedy I wanted my collection to inspire and educate, while still helping people protect themselves. I did a lot of research on military dress, specifically certain collars and trouser closures, taking direct inspiration from the front bib of the pant, similar to sailor trousers. While researching traditional and military dress, I played around by experimenting with these different silhouettes and how I could bring them into the modern world, I experimented by draping on the dress from as well as on CLO. 

Protest wear was very important to research as to see what people were actually wearing to different protests. It was important to include elements that allowed the wearer to hide themselves and protect their identity. I do this through the inclusions of hood elements, from direct hoods to the transforming skirt.

Along with silhouette experimentation, I had a lot of textile development as well. To honor my culture and Policarpa, I experimented with different weavings, from fabric strips to incorporating horse hair. My first weave started with yarn, raffia paper, horsehair, and wooden dowels, I continued to develop this in a way that would be comfortable and wearable, allowing for flexibility while still connecting back to Colombian textiles.

I also experimented with leather molding, wetting then hardening veg tan leather to create a statue-like flag for another sculptural element.

I incorporated flag iconography as well, mixing it with my weaving I created these long weaves that are essentially quilted together to create the woven flags. 

I translated this element into CLO by uploading my weave as a pattern, then I created the texture maps to allow for the woven texture to come across through the renders. 

Final photoshoot and renders

Fashion film


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